How to Pack Fragile Items for Moving: Step-by-Step Guide

First things first, not all boxes are created equal, especially when you’re dealing with something fragile. You don’t want to put a delicate teacup in a giant box where it can rattle around, nor do you want to cram heavy plates into a box that’s too small and might burst.

As a general rule, smaller boxes are better for heavier fragile items like books or a stack of plates, as they’re easier to manage and less likely to break. This principle of starting with the right foundation applies to the whole move; it’s why it’s so important to have a strategy for what belongings to tackle first. Lighter, bulkier items can go into slightly larger boxes, but always make sure the box can handle the weight without buckling.

When my family moved to Austin, we had a collection of my mom’s ceramic cookware. We used smaller, reinforced boxes for those, and it made all the difference.

Before a single fragile object goes into that box, you need to create a soft landing pad. Think of it as a shock absorber. Crumple up packing paper – don’t be shy with it – and create a generous layer at least 2-3 inches thick at the bottom of the box.

You can also use bubble cushioning or even soft linens like towels for this. The goal is to ensure that if the box gets bumped, the contents have a buffer.

This is probably the most important step in how to pack fragile items for moving. Every single fragile piece needs to be wrapped individually. Yes, every plate, every glass, every figurine. Use several sheets of packing paper for each item.

For really delicate things, like crystal stemware or thin porcelain, wrap them in paper first, then add a layer of bubble cushioning. When wrapping, start from a corner of the paper and roll the item, tucking in the sides as you go, kind of like swaddling a baby.

Secure the wrapping with a small piece of tape if needed, but often the friction of the paper is enough. My sister Megan has a knack for this – she calls it her “wrapping therapy.”

Once wrapped, it’s time to place them in the prepared box. The golden rule here is snug. You don’t want items to shift or knock against each other during transit. Place heavier items at the bottom and lighter, more delicate items on top. Fill any empty spaces – and I mean any empty spaces – with more crumpled packing paper, bubble cushioning, or soft cloths.

The box should be full enough that nothing moves when you gently shake it. If you can hear clinking, you need more padding. This is a crucial part of packaging fragile items correctly. Think of it like a puzzle; everything should fit together without force but also without room to roam.

For items like glasses, wine bottles, or mugs, cell dividers are a game-changer. These cardboard inserts create individual compartments for each item, preventing them from clanking together.

If you don’t have cell kits, you can create your own makeshift dividers with sturdy cardboard, or make sure each glass is exceptionally well-wrapped and padded. When we packed up my mom’s restaurant glassware, these dividers were indispensable. Each glass arrived in Chicago perfectly intact.

Just like you cushioned the bottom, you need to cushion the top. Before you seal the box, add another generous layer of crumpled packing paper or bubble cushioning on top of your packed items. This protects them from anything that might get placed on top of the box and from shocks if the box is jostled. It’s the final hug for your fragile objects.

Now, seal that box up tight with good quality packing tape. Use the H-tape method: tape along all the seams where the flaps meet, and then across the edges. And then comes the labeling – oh, so important! Clearly mark the box “FRAGILE” on all sides and the top. Use a bright, noticeable marker.

Also, write “THIS SIDE UP” with arrows pointing in the correct direction, especially for boxes containing liquids or items that need to stay upright. Finally, list the general contents (e.g., “Kitchen Glassware,” “Living Room Figurines”) and the destination room. This helps the movers know how to handle it and helps you when you’re unpacking. You can find more smart labeling strategies in our full guide.

My dad, the engineer, was meticulous about labeling; it made settling into our new homes in Chicago and later Austin so much smoother.

When it comes to packing fragile items like plates, wrap each one individually in packing paper. Then, stack them on their edges in the box – never flat! Stacking them on their edges makes them much stronger and less likely to break under pressure. Think of how dishwashers often store plates. Place padding between each wrapped plate.

For glasses and stemware, wrap each one generously with paper, paying extra attention to stems and handles. Stuff crumpled paper inside larger glasses or goblets for extra support before wrapping the outside. Place them rim down in a cell box or a well-padded regular box.

My sister Megan swears by using clean socks slipped over her wine glasses (after wrapping them in paper, of course) for an extra layer of protection during her many moves. It’s one of those quirky tips that actually works! We’ve collected more of these unconventional but effective moving hacks.

Ah, electronics. We all have them, and they can be surprisingly delicate. If you still have the original packaging for your TV, computer, or gaming console, use it! That’s what it was designed for. If not, wrap the item in bubble cushioning – lots of it. Pay special attention to screens. You can use a thin foam sheet or even a soft blanket directly against the screen before wrapping with bubble cushioning.

Secure loose cables and accessories, perhaps by taping them to the wrapped unit or packing them in a labeled bag within the same box. Make sure the box is well-padded and clearly marked “FRAGILE – ELECTRONICS.” The same care should be taken with workshop equipment; there’s a specific method for getting your power tools ready for a move. I learned this the hard way with a monitor once during my college days – a few more layers of bubble cushioning would have saved me a headache.

For packaging fragile items like mirrors and large picture frames, the key is to protect the glass and the corners. If the glass is large, make an ‘X’ across it with painter’s tape – this won’t stop it from breaking, but it can help hold the pieces together if it does.

Wrap the entire item in bubble cushioning or a furniture pad. For extra protection, you can sandwich it between two pieces of sturdy cardboard cut slightly larger than the frame.

Special mirror boxes are available from moving supply companies and are definitely worth considering for valuable pieces. When we moved a large antique mirror for my mom’s restaurant, we built a custom crate for it. This level of care is often required when you’re figuring out how to transport large, valuable pieces like furniture.

Lamps can be awkward. First, disassemble them as much as possible. Remove the harp and finial, and pack the lampshade separately. Lampshades are super delicate; they can dent and crush easily.

Don’t try to pack anything else with a lampshade. Nest smaller shades inside larger ones if you can, separated by clean packing paper, or pack each one in its own box with plenty of cushioning around it.

The lamp base, if it’s fragile (like ceramic or glass), should be wrapped in bubble cushioning and packed upright in a box filled with packing paper to prevent tipping. If the base is sturdy (like metal or wood), it might just need a good wrap in paper or a blanket.